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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble shop achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.